Crabby Kayak Adventures at Kejimkujik Seaside

“Come on, Uli! Let’s get ’em! We’re coming for you, Mom!” Isaac warned as we played kayak tag. His voice being the only sound in this serene estuary other than our paddles gliding through the flat water and the birds wondering who we were.


Here I sit in a frigid arena at the commencement of winter sports struggling to believe that a mere 4 weeks ago we were 2000 km away, gently kayaking through a protected estuary and chowing down on decadent lobster roll and seafood caesar salad on the white sandy shore at Kejimkujik (Ke-jim-koo-jik) National Park Seaside in Port Joli, Nova Scotia. Keji Seaside for short.

We were thisclose to backing out of this trip because it would mean arriving back home to Ontario with just sixteen hours before the bell rings on the first day of school.  I’m so grateful that we followed through. 

We met Matt DeLong, owner of Candlebox Kayaking based in Shelburne, NS, along with his team, Uli and Rob in the parking lot of Keji Seaside. We were outfitted with life jackets and water shoes.  They hoisted dry bags full to the top with supplies onto their backs and we all struck out down the trail.  It’s a picturesque, 3 km hike on a well-maintained trail.  Along the way we saw lots of seals and sea birds.  We have been on several designated “seal hikes” with zero luck.  We saw more seals in 5 minutes here, than we have on any other excursion.  We crossed by wetlands and spied several species of birds.  We learned much from our guides about cormorants and other wildlife in park.

Fun Fact: Have you ever seen a cormorant standing atop a rock with his wings spread out? I’d always thought it was some intimidation tactic, to make them look bigger.  Wrong!  They don’t have enough oil in their feathers to repel water while they dive for their dinner.  They become saturated with water and could drown because they are so heavy.  So, there they stand, wings spread, just drying out.

We made it to the cabin to learn all about the invasive and wildly destructive green crabs.  Gabrielle from Parks Canada was the perfect interpreter for kids.  She let Isaac help pull up a trap, carry it to the dock and inspect the crabs.  Gabrielle patiently answered each of his questions in language he could understand.  The green crabs were first discovered in the 1950’s in the Bay of Fundy.  They, along with so many other invasive species over the years, traveled here from Europe in the ballast waters of ships. By the 90’s they’d made their way to Nova Scotia’s South Shore including here at Keji Seaside.  At first, researchers couldn’t figure out what was crushing the clams and breaking off the ecologically important eel grass at the base.  Local fisherman were the ones with the answers.  They said that those signs were the calling card of the green crabs.  Researchers started to set traps and were shocked at the numbers.  Green crabs are voracious, and not terribly discriminating eaters.  They eat anything they can get their claws on, clams being a favourite. Keji Seaside has 2 estuaries.  Both were chock full of green crabs. Their appetite left the estuaries as a “moonscape”, meaning there is essentially no life.  The researchers and Parks Canada decided to try and find a solution.  They left one estuary as a control and started trapping in the other.  They catch up to 1000 crabs per day in traps specially designed by fisherman Russell Nickerson.  Over 2.2 MILLION crabs have been trapped since 2010!  For the first time since embarking on this ambitious project, they are finding other creatures in the traps such as small lobster and fish making this the first successful ocean restoration. Isaac pointed out an odd looking crab in the trap.  Gabrielle carefully pulled the crab up to discover that it was in the middle of molting.  We were able to witness the completion of the molting process.  The crabs new shell was as soft as skin and would within 24 hours.  Restaurants are trying out different recipes with the softshell green crab which apparently are comparable to a sweet scallop.   There’s even an entire green crab cookbook.  I’ll be searching out a restaurant with that on the menu next year.

This already incredible day was about to get better.  We zipped up our life jackets, jumped in our kayaks and started paddling through the estuary.  This is a rarely before paddled spot and knowing that we are some of only a few to witness it added to the experience.  The water was clear straight to the bottom.  Timing is key because if the tide is going some of the spots will be too shallow to paddle through.  Matt has the timing worked out just right.  The scenery and tranquility were breathtaking.  We paddled to a secluded beach and Isaac and I explored while Matt and his team set up lunch. Oh, my goodness.  THE FOOD!  Savoury and chocked-full-of-meat lobster roll accompanied by seafood caesar salad complete with scallops, lobster and shrimp.  Isaac is not one for lobster so after paying him $1.00 to try a bite, I took one for the team and devoured his, too.  It’s a hard ole life. Ha! Then along came crackers with goat cheese and red pepper jelly.  I didn’t think we could eat one more bite.  I changed my tune, however, when strawberries, biscuits and whipped cream appeared.  This was 5-star food with an unmatched view.  A sailboat sailed past.  It barely felt like reality. We could’ve stayed here all day long, but we did have to work with the tides.  The guides packed up the picnic while we wandered along the shore.  On our way back we paddled through little coves and spotted lots of wildlife on the one hundred little islands along the way.  We even spotted a bald eagle!  Isaac was in a kayak with Uli.  She was just right for him.  Isaac has energy for days and she was so patient, fun and kind and again, answered all of his questions.  One of his favourite parts of our day was playing kayak tag.  We paddled quickly as we tried to tag the other boats.  It’s a blessing that Uli was such a strong paddler because I’m not entirely sure Isaac’s hypersonic, tag-playing strokes were moving them forward. He was, without a doubt having the time of his life. After landing at the cabin, we headed to the beach to jump in the waves while the guys packed up.  I’m not sure why we waited this long to explore this park but can guarantee that we’ll be back.

From the hike in and the green crab experience to the tranquil kayaking through a rarely seen estuary and a delectable seafood picnic on the beach, this was certainly a once in a lifetime experience.  Isaac wrote and illustrated his own book about the day to remember it by and for my birthday this year he drew green crabs on the front of the card.  This memory and everything he learned will stick with him forever and I adored being able to experience it with him.  The efforts and attention to detail that Matt has put into this package are evident at every turn.  CandleBox Kayaking also offers this package with meals and accommodations at the 5-star Quarterdeck Beachside Villas and Grill which would certainly make a unique and memorable “glamping” getaway with the girls.  Matt told Isaac about “kayak surfing” at the beach so Isaac already has big plans to test that out next year. 

Catch ya next summer, Nova Scotia!

Accidental Adventures in Baie Sainte-Marie, Nova Scotia

No cars.  Not a one.  Despite having a copy of my reservation, there were zero cars to rent on Nova Scotia’s South Shore in June. 

Dear car rental companies,

Could you kindly fix your glitchy system that allows customers to go online and reserve vehicles, despite there not truly being any vehicles available?

Sincerely,

Stranded on the South Shore

The kiddos and I flew into Halifax in June.  My family loves to pick up/drop off at the airport, even though it’s 2.5 hours away.  We’re sappy like that.  There’s nothing like seeing your very own people coming down those stairs.  I had planned on picking up a car in Bridgewater for the week as I had a super fun event to attend aboard the ferry in Digby.  Despite the reservation, Yarmouth, it turns out didn’t actually have any. I thought that surely Bridgewater would come through.  Nope! 

My mother offered to drive us all the way to Digby, watch the kids for the day and we could plan to stay for the night somewhere along the French Shore.  These lemons were turning into lemonade right before my eyes.  She booked the Baie-Ste. Marie Cottages. They were stunning.  Cliffside and all windows with a breathtaking view to watch the Bay of Fundy tides flow in and out.  A staircase led down the cliff which allowed us to explore what the tides brought in.  We walked out a long way until – squelch – my oldest sunk into the sinking sand up to his knees.  Little sister thought it was so funny that she jumped in herself.  They were laughing so hard that they fell backwards accidentally on purpose.  After pulling them and their boots out we squelched and squrched our way back to the cottage and straight to the tub.  There were two twin beds in the downstairs bedroom and a Queen size bed in the loft.  The kids had already claimed their beds and after 73 emergency drinks of water they finally fell asleep.

The next morning, we hit up the local farmers market and picked up some hand painted decorations, a snack and walked out to a replica lighthouse on the wharf.  I had left a message that morning for Hinterland Adventures to see if we could get out kayaking.  As we were leaving the market he called back and said we could come out in a couple hours.  We quickly jumped into the car, grabbed a bite to eat and struck out along the long, windy road.  Just when we were positive that we’d taken a wrong turn we found it.  The owner, Hanford, has been a wilderness guide for 50 years and still guides 21-day kayak tours through the Tobeatic Wilderness Area.  He filled us in lots of local information and lore before we dipped our paddles into the Sissiboo River. This was my mother’s first time in a kayak and with his kind instruction she was an old pro in no time.  We weaved our way up the river.  I was in absolute awe of the peacefulness.  So was Maddie apparently, as she fell sound asleep for more than an hour.  That kind of peaceful feeling that you wish you could bottle and hang on to forever.  While paddling back we came across a nest housing a family of Bald Eagles. Mom, Dad and at least one baby.  They were keeping a close eye on us as baby’s head poked in and out before Dad spread his wings and soared away.  I stayed behind for a bit to quietly watch.  We made it back to shore and checked out the kayaks that he had for sale.  If you’re in the market for a sea kayak, he had the best price I’ve come across and with his 5 decades of experience, I’d trust his advice.

After the peace and tranquility of the afternoon we were down for some comfort food and found it at the Roadside Grill in Belliveau Cove.  The clams.  THE CLAMS!  Order the clams. They were super kid friendly with grilled cheese and chicken fingers, too. 

Back at the cabins we explored the ocean floor at low tide.  The kids found all kinds of shells and colourful stones and bet each other whether certain spots were sinking sand or not.  There was a long, loose stone breakwater that we climbed from one end to the other and back.

On our way out the next morning we stopped at Meteghan Family Park.  This is an ideal stop for young families.  I can’t list everything they’ve managed to include but our favourites were the small climbing wall, the climbers, a long slide, a fishing net to climb across and the perennial favourite, a zip line made from a fishing boat bladder.  Such a great idea!!  A skate park was found at the back of the park as well, but we aren’t at that stage just yet.

Next stop along the journey back was the Église Catholique Sainte-Marie in the aptly named, Church Point.  It’s the tallest wooden church in North America!  This was a surprise favourite.  Our guide knew just the things to point out to keep the kids interested. All of the intricately created stained glass windows were shipped from France. In Molasses! I swear, there’s nothing molasses can’t do. It’s the real super food.  The pillars are in fact tree trunks.  The most fascinating story involves the altar.  It came from Saint Pierre and Miquelon during Canada’s prohibition. The island is off the coast of Newfoundland but is actually part of France so wasn’t subject to prohibition. They brought the altar over with a bevy of bottles stashed away which weren’t even detected.  This is worth a stop if you are traveling in the area.

Our final stop was Mavillette Beach.  What a gem!  1.5 km of sandy beach.  The water was even warm (for June, anyway).  The kids ran, explored and jumped the waves until it was time to begin the drive back to Lockeport. 

Our car rental debacle had turned into one of the best getaways in a long time, made even better by getting in some real quality time with my mom because as Donovan Woods wrote “You can’t beg, steal, borrow or make time”. Living 2000 km apart makes these visits that much sweeter.  We can’t wait to explore more of the Acadian Shore this summer!

Maritime Ferry Fun!

This past summer we took a loop vacation from Southern Nova Scotia to Grand Manan, NB with our last stop in Cavendish, PEI before heading back.  Part of the excitement of planning this trip was knowing how excited my kids were going to be to sail on all of the different ferries.  They’ve not yet been on a real cruise ship but some of these ships felt like a Carnival Cruise for them. Here’s a rundown of the ships we traveled aboard.

 “MV Fundy Rose”
Bay Ferries
Digby, NS – St. John, NB

Upon arrival in Digby for our first ferry ride of the day we checked in, explored the terminal and then headed back to the car to wait.   Thankfully, it was a sunny day so we could walk around outside to burn off some energy.  Our time had arrived to board and now that they’d seen the ferry, the kids were about to pop up out of their seats from the excitement.

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Island Hopping: P.E.I.

This past summer we took an Island adventure.  After kayaking and whale watching in Grand Manan, New Brunswick we crossed the nearly 13 kilometre (!!) Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island. 

The middle of the Island’s busy summer can be a tricky time to find nightly cottage accommodations as opposed to weekly.  After perusing the old Google box, I came across Green Gables Cottages

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